The highlands are actually quite low

In my mind, the Scottish “highlands” have always conjured up visions of misty crags covered with heather and bracken. We have visited Scotland several times, and have always managed to include some hiking in the hills.

But our stay at a comfortable remote chalet on the NW coast in October was a real eye-opener to the nature of the highlands. The cottage is on the sea, yet within 3 minutes we could be climbing amidst the heather; within 10 minutes we could be out of view of any buildings and roads.

Stac Pollaigh. We climbed this in 1981, but although the weather at the time we passed looked clear, it was only a brief spell of late afternoon sunshine.

In this part of Scotland, trees only grow in sheltered areas, so the treeless “highlands” start just a few metres above the sea level. The hills are not particularly high either: there are only 283 peaks over 914m (a “munro” is a peak of >3,000 feet) within Scotland, and although nearby Stac Pollaidh is an impressive-looking peak, it is “only” 612m high.

Peering over the ridge to avoid startling stags.

October is rutting season for deer, and the bellows of stags echoed in the hills the night we arrived. We were with my cousin and her husband, and Wayne was keen to take us up into the hills to stalk stags. Just as well he was guiding us: it was clear that “stalking” was necessary, as these animals are very attentive and were easily spooked.

After a couple of hours happily wandering over the hills, we had seen several stags at a distance —young males or ones that were unable to attract a harem of hinds. But then Wayne peered over a ridge and held up his hand to caution us to stop. “Shh... here’s the main herd!”

We got down on our tummies and lifted our heads to look over the rocky ridge. A large stag was looking at us from the opposite ridge—as more than 20 of his hinds were nervously moving further up the hill.

A stag and his hinds.

The life of a stag is not easy. There is only room for one top animal, and there are always contenders for the position lurking around the edges trying to lure hinds away. Eventually, the dominant stag is defeated—or shot. We felt privileged to have the opportunity to see these animals in their environment.

Read between the lines in hotel reviews

We had two nights in Singapore, and one was for an arrival after midnight. We’d checked online, and selected and booked a mid-range hotel. The reviews had noted that the “Fragrance Crystal” hotel was located in the red light Geylang district, but most had been fairly positive. Alternatives were either much more expensive or backpacker dorms. I booked and paid online, noting on the Agoda form that we would be arriving very late—possibly after 01:00.

Our plane was delayed so we didn’t arrive until nearly 02:30. The front desk had our reservation though, and gave us keys to a 3rd floor room.

The room was dismal. Not only was there noise from the street, but it smelled of smoke (despite being a non-smoking hotel), and there was just a sheet over a rubber mattress with a rather dirty blanket. When Katharine called the desk, she was told that “no sheets are available” and “we cannot control if someone smokes in a room.”

We thought we might just cope, but even the pillows smelled of smoke. I called back to insist they find a sheet, new pillows and a clean blanket. At nearly 04:00, the items arrived, and we soon fell asleep—only to be jarred awake by an unrequested wake-up call at 06:00!

Apparently they had neglected to cancel it from the previous guest.

I spoke to the manager when we did get up some time later. He listened, apologized, and said he would upgrade us to a proper room. No excuses or waffling—and he was true to his word. The 7th floor back room was quite acceptable, and we had a good sleep the next night.

Our reservation clearly let them know the room would be empty until late, so we suspect that the 3rd floor room had been “rented out” without management knowing.

Lessons?

• Plan to pay a bit more to avoid a red light district. The hotel location was reasonably convenient to the excellent Singapore MRT system, but the walk to the station had garbage in the street and some disreputable characters along the way—certainly not typical of the rest of Singapore.
• Check the room before moving in, even if it is very late and they claim it is the last room. If we’d done that, they would have at least had to find bedding sooner—or found a different room.
• When there is a problem, speak to management. Shouting would not have helped—and may well have worked against us. By just stating the facts, the manager was able to rectify the situation without losing face.
• Online sites like Agoda.com take full payment at time of booking. Both of our nights were fully paid, so changing after the first night would be complicated (at least). If there is an option, just pay a deposit.
• Use online sites like TripAdvisor or Agoda’s own feedback to rate hotels. in our case, the bad experience was certainly part of our stay, but the manager’s actions at least helped raise our rating to some extent.

Chilling in Chiang Rai

There we were, enjoying views of the countryside from the front seat of our Chiang Mai to Chiang Rai bus when Eric gasped, “Move over, man!” nanoseconds before the sickening crunch.

Our driver had slammed into a truck parked on the shoulder of the highway. It was a clear, sunny day with no traffic. Intriguingly (to us) the two saffron-clad monks who’d been chatting with the truck driver high-tailed it down the highway. Inauspicious to be at the scene of an accident? Who knows?

And, who knows what would happen to our driver, who was emotional about the accident.

Within an hour, another Green Bus had collected us all, and we arrived in Chiang Rai only 50 minutes late. Athu, from Afect Asia, a Dutch NGO with which we’ll be travelling and doing some volunteer work, met us as arranged and whisked us to Afect’s headquarters. Due to my chest and throat cold, we requested altering our trek start from February 4 to Feb 8. Fortunately, they could accommodate this request and, after a welcome cup of herbal tea and a chat with a Spanish volunteer worker, Athu brought us to our guest house.

Baan Bua Guest House is an oasis in downtown Chiang Rai. Resembling a small motel, its emerald green and ochre facade overlooks a tidy garden where tables and chairs allow us to have meals, a Chang (Elephant brand) beer, or simply chill and read. Vivid clusters of orange blossoms on immense vines and the chatter of red-cheeked bulbuls emphasize the oasis ambiance: after seeing some of the other guest houses, we’re glad to be here. Co-owner Tim, with her husband Brian, is absolutely fluent in English, having studied in Texas for two years. Delightful, attentive, informed: it’s wonderful to really be able to chat with a Thai beyond the basics!

Cliff Cottages

Did we like it? Evidently: we planned to stay for 4 nights, but kept extending to end up staying seven nights. At 300 bhat/night (~C$10) it was certainly not a budget breaker.

The staff were very friendly; bathrooms were clean; the food (cooked by a local) was fresh and excellent; views were great; the snorkelling in a clear bay absolutely superb…

But? Well, it is pretty basic. The cottages have thin walls with large gaps between the boards; the floors are not completely level; most of the room is a bed with a fairly basic firm mattress (albeit quite comfortable). A mosquito net is installed above the bed, and although we did use it, there were very few bugs evident. We had a padlock for the door (they will supply them too) but after a day or so, we felt that theft was not so much of an issue and the real purpose of the padlock was simply to show that a cottage was being occupied.

Would we recommend the place? Absolutely—but with qualifications, and only to those who understand that it isn’t trying to be more than a rustic place. One morning we witnessed a couple yelling at the gracious staff about how much they disliked the place: too quiet (no parties!) and too basic. Later on, owner Ewen McPhee told us he gets discouraged because although his web site is very clear regarding how remote and rustic it is, some people fail to read his frank cautions.

There are lots of alternative lodgings in Bang Bao, and most seemed to have rooms available. We had dinner with a honeymoon couple staying at The Nirvana next door, and their room was spacious with an en suite bathroom—but also cost 2,600 bhat/night. It had a pool, and the food was good but by no means outstanding. The view was of the Bang Bao pier, and swimming in that obviously-polluted bay was out of the question.

For us, Cliff Cottages was a relaxing, laid-back place to get into the rhythm of Thailand. We were sad to leave.

Koh Chang: Elephant Island

Boarded the minivan we hired to take us from our Pacific Jomtien hotel to Bang Bao fishing village on Koh Chang, which takes its name (Chang is elephant in Thai) due to the island being the shape of an elephant’s head. Supposedly. We’re picked up promptly at 7:30, thankfully being the first to board, as the van fills up with 10 passengers total. Driver gets lost twice…

Then we’re off and after 4 hours we arrive at the ferry docks where we drive on a waiting vessel. The crossing takes about 40 minutes and en route we purchase a coconut and a lemon “milkshake” for 40 bhat each. Deliciously refreshing – but no dairy involved, solely the fresh fruit/nut and ice along, of course, with sugar syrup. In other words, so far the Thai milkshakes have no milk: another mystery…

Koh Chang is surprisingly mountainous with hairpin roads leading to a western coast lined with resorts, ATMs, diving/snorkel outfitters – and the inevitable sarong & souvenir shops. Everyone is let off and we’re alone heading to the southernmost village, Bang Bao. Here’s where Eric discovered Cliff Cottages for $10/night. Remote, rustic, no partying, the sound of the surf: this is what the website promises. We’re warned on the website to bring a padlock to secure our cabin.

Our first cabin, #20, is lop-sided, threatening to capsize down the cliff & has a glimpsing view of the ocean if you stand just so. We ask to change, selecting #10, a tad more robust and closer to the clean but shared showers/toilets. No view. The pink mosquito nets look great but I am concerned about cockroaches & other creepy crawlies. I have to curb this concern… I know I’ll find them on this trip or, more likely, they will find moi!

We eat here, on-site, choosing two curries, a green and Panang curry, which turns out to be a red curry. Delicious.

We stroll to the pier, amused if not startled by the ubiquitous motorbikes which toot then push past strolling tourists, shopkeepers and snoozing dogs on the 2-metre wide pier! We book a snorkelling trip for tomorrow (why not jump in & have some exercise & fun?!). For 500 bhat apiece (about $13 Cdn) we’ll be fed and tour 4 islands in Mu Koh Chang National Marine Park.

Then to bed amid a whopping, lovely wind storm. We appreciate its cool as we lie in bed with the pink netting billowing about. Lovely.

Pattaya perfection

A good friend who lives in Pattaya during our Canadian winter months recommended we stay at Villa Thongbura for the first few days after our arrival in Thailand. Great advice. With a breezy, comfortable room including aircon, fan, fridge and kitchenette, we felt like royalty – a feeling that was magnified when we swam. Lined with emerald-green tiles and decorated with dragons and dragon-boat sculptures, we swam to erase the humidity. Glorious. With breakfast included, our room was approximately $34.00Cdn.

Today is our friend’s 50th birthday: we treated him to a two-hour massage at his favourite place, Thai Blind Massage Institute. Founded by “Mr. Henri” and “Mr. Sayan” in 1999, the Institute trains and employs blind persons who otherwise wouldn’t have a profession. What surprised Eric and I was all three of us friends were escorted into a shaded, teak-lined room and asked to lie upon Thai teak massage tables. The three masseurs (mine was a masseuse) immediately set to work (I had asked for a gentle Thai massage, knowing they can be quite painfully strong for beginners like me).

I never realized my body could adopt such poses while being massaged – and so the laughter from our friend who has a Thai massage weekly kept me more than a bit curious. Opening my eyes at various intervals, I saw him in several uncomfortable-looking postures including one during which his masseur was seated on his butt, pulling his legs backwards. Another bout of laughter revealed his legs being pulled over his head… little did I know some similar postures would be my immediate future!

That night after dining at Natang’s for French food (the owner’s from Montreal) we took in a ladyboy show featuring the astonishingly beautiful kattoys, Thailand’s well-accepted third sex. Extravagant cabaret-style acts with amazing singing and dance routines were all well-received by the appreciative audience, including us. Reminded us of similar acts we’ve seen in Torremolinos, in Spain’s Costa del Sol.

Arrival in Bangkok

Arrived on Korean Airline at Bangkok Suvarnabhumi Airport (BKK) at 21:30 & quickly/uneventfully went through immigration – Eric took longer than me because the official’s computer kept crashing! Did all the usual: changed a bit of money at an ATM, then lined up for hot pink cab which pronounced “Long Live the King” on its back window. Arrived at Paragon Inn “The secret of living” boutique hotel; paid cabbie the 90 Bhat+airport surcharge of 50 bhat.

Very friendly staff greeted us, gave us cold oj (very sweet), photocopied the front page of our passport, then ushered us to Room 23. Cost of Room was 14500 bhat (Cdn ~$34).

A fabulous little room with extremely comfy queen bed/two pillows each plus a third twin bed (would be great for a small family). Room contained b/r with bath/shower, a large-screen tv, and free wireless (good & fast) after getting code from front desk.

Intro to Bangkok seamless: weather 27C but aircon in room makes us extremely comfy. A great start: tomorrow we meet our friends and on the 13th January celebrate a 50th birthday with them – one of the reasons for the timing of our trip!

Incheon Airport Guest House: Surprise!

Korean Air flight KE72 arrived as scheduled 17:15 January 10. It is –6C and snowy outside.

Because we’ll retrieve our backpacks in Bangkok, we go through customs, then ask the Information kiosk agent to call Incheon Airport Guest House (free call). (English is understood here by officials.) We are asked to go to exit 8 & await car #1517… The shuttle-van arrives within 5 minutes and we’re off, through snow-clad streets to the hotel.

Surprise! It’s not what we expect… The van parks in a sub-basement of a bleak high-rise. The driver whisks up to room 927, the office. Eric takes off his shoes to enter, gets the key to room 331 and confirms airport shuttle for 11:50 tomorrow. Our driver gives me 2 towels & I ask for a third, plus one bedsheet.

Our room is spartan but surprisingly large: a double bed with two pillows & folded duvet, mattress pad and cover; tv; bathroom with shower plus laundry; kitchenette; fridge with two bottles of water. Once again, we take off our shoes and use slippers provided before stepping onto hardwood floor.

After finding English news channel we watch the 19h news then crash.